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Anabolic Steroids

Bike gains and tech

bossetti

bossetti

Member
Ok guys i know that no one here care (and ofc i dont blame u on that) but i wanted to start a thread on bike gains but nore on the tech side so not gonna talk too much about training nutrition an juice
Also wanna talk about choice of gear(i dont mean juice) based on the use of them and also on how to work on ur bike
 

Lets start with the basics today im gonna talk about type of bikes​

Bikes in general are too big of a group to be considered tge same so we are gonna divide them in 4 different types cyclocross(cx), gravel, road and mtb(gonna talk more about xc when i talk about mtb)
Gravel an cyclocross for me aee really similar and if wentalk about comoetitions a cx bike can be for sure used as gravel but with some work, then there are road bikes that ofc we know how are made and then mtb were we have 1 or 2 suspensions, fat tyres usually dropper post and straight bar
At an inexpert eyes gravel/cx can be mistaken for the same type of bike but they have differences,its more about the geometry/ tyre clearence for example a cx bike has straight top tube to put it better on ur shoulder, yres on gravel are fatter without real limits and cyclocross are 33mm max(as a rule) and with knobs
Tomorrow morning gonna dive deeper on tyres
 
I'll read along but if you see me on a bike without a gasoline powered engine >600CCs I'm doing pretty bad LoL.

The mopeds and E bikes are a favorite of our local copper recycling experts. Especially the E bikes ;)
 
TurboJet said:
I'll read along but if you see me on a bike without a gasoline powered engine >600CCs I'm doing pretty bad LoL.

The mopeds and E bikes are a favorite of our local copper recycling experts. Especially the E bikes ;)
Click to expand...
I Dont think i ever said it but dont exclude in the future im not gonna buy a dirt bike, i like a lot yamaha yz lol
 
TurboJet said:
I'll read along but if you see me on a bike without a gasoline powered engine >600CCs I'm doing pretty bad LoL.

The mopeds and E bikes are a favorite of our local copper recycling experts. Especially the E bikes ;)
Click to expand...

agree, bikes should have engines. for example nuclear reactor under ass like v4 from aprilia.
 
TYRES
Mtb tyres
Mtb tyre i think are the easier one were the didnt improved so much in the last time,,other than specific and rare cases i would use 2.35/2.4 tyres so u can run lower pressure(by having bigger volume) and having a larger thread, the casing should be sturdy but lightweight, personally on xc a tire heavier than 700g i dont like it but on these harder course that we see today its not that bad, i personally use specialized fast trak control(i could use the lighter s-works on the front but i think its too supple that could be a good thing but depends) 2.35 on the front and renegade control 2.35 on the back, if i remember well with 60ml of stans no tubes sealant for each tyre (i have the weight of each tyre written at home so im gonna update it here but its different in every tire so dont count too much on it) thinner tyres for real mud are better even 2.0 because they sort of cut through the mud

Cyclocross​

Here the things get more interesting, the tyre choice is more important, but keep in mind you should have at least 2 wheelsets the first with tubeless or tube for training and the second with tubulars (this should be race only, ofc if u want to waste money or pro you can do what u want),first what are tubulars, they are basically tires that are glued to tge rim im gonna post after this message how to glue them everyone has his method but i say what works for me
Why tubs are superior? Basically you can run them at lower pressures without having troubles, another extra is that crazy suppleness because the sides on good quality one are made out of fabric rolling resistance and weight arent so important here because being on the bike its more valuable than some saved watt if someone had only 2 types of wheels (tubeless and tubular) i would put medium terrain on tubeless wheels and on tubular wheels mud tyres simply because the tubular shine more on mud

ROAD​

On road its pretty easy tubeless is superion in literally everything and i think 28mm its ideal now if u are interested go on this site to find the fastest tyre Bicycle Rolling Resistance | Rolling Resistance Tests
Remember confort its also efficiency and wide mean safer/faster in downhill

Tubs are interesting only for weight and its not huge
Im gonna continue with the hardest that its gravel next
 
Benf15harp said:
Let’s say I wanted to get into cycling
Which bike brands would be the bang for the buck ??
Click to expand...
This is interesting, there is a lot of people that says that some brands are shit but right now almost any bike is the same,some are better but the difference isnt huge,btw i would say giant for bang for buck
Its interesting the thing of the chinese frames but now the second hand market is cheaper
But i think the components are more important than the frame itself, and even top tier bikes out of the shop can be improved,mtb are different some dont ride as well as others because geometry,scott are the most downhill friendly xc bike
 
Last edited:
bossetti said:
TYRES
Mtb tyres
Mtb tyre i think are the easier one were the didnt improved so much in the last time,,other than specific and rare cases i would use 2.35/2.4 tyres so u can run lower pressure(by having bigger volume) and having a larger thread, the casing should be sturdy but lightweight, personally on xc a tire heavier than 700g i dont like it but on these harder course that we see today its not that bad, i personally use specialized fast trak control(i could use the lighter s-works on the front but i think its too supple that could be a good thing but depends) 2.35 on the front and renegade control 2.35 on the back, if i remember well with 60ml of stans no tubes sealant for each tyre (i have the weight of each tyre written at home so im gonna update it here but its different in every tire so dont count too much on it) thinner tyres for real mud are better even 2.0 because they sort of cut through the mud

Cyclocross​

Here the things get more interesting, the tyre choice is more important, but keep in mind you should have at least 2 wheelsets the first with tubeless or tube for training and the second with tubulars (this should be race only, ofc if u want to waste money or pro you can do what u want),first what are tubulars, they are basically tires that are glued to tge rim im gonna post after this message how to glue them everyone has his method but i say what works for me
Why tubs are superior? Basically you can run them at lower pressures without having troubles, another extra is that crazy suppleness because the sides on good quality one are made out of fabric rolling resistance and weight arent so important here because being on the bike its more valuable than some saved watt if someone had only 2 types of wheels (tubeless and tubular) i would put medium terrain on tubeless wheels and on tubular wheels mud tyres simply because the tubular shine more on mud

ROAD​

On road its pretty easy tubeless is superion in literally everything and i think 28mm its ideal now if u are interested go on this site to find the fastest tyre Bicycle Rolling Resistance | Rolling Resistance Tests
Remember confort its also efficiency and wide mean safer/faster in downhill

Tubs are interesting only for weight and its not huge
Im gonna continue with the hardest that its gravel next
Click to expand...
ITS GRAVEL TYRE TURN NOW LOL
Tecnically shouldnt be hard but the guys from unbound ecc made it so, in the last years the courses are getting harder(specially in us,in races like unbound),in tradition course gravel tyres ar gtg, i would select the model watching the site brr, if i need a bit of grip selecting the fastest grippy thread if its really fast with a lot of tarmac some slick gravel tyre, the interesting thing is in hard course were they use mtb tyres, why? Because they need a sturdier tyre and and using a hevier gravel tyre is slower,also need higher pressures, so using a really light mtb tyre is actually faster and also by having a bigger volume you can inflate it less, so it dampen the potholes more,they use super light tyres like schwalbe thunder burt gravel tech is crazy and evolving a lot, maybe too much lol
 
Ok forgot the tubular gluing video for cx

View: https://youtu.be/qFCeMhRNPLQ?si=JHzky--9YYX5olBO

Another thing i want to say about cx tubs is that tufo are robust but not the supplest, top performance is by cotton textile sidewalls (cotton,silk, linen) for me the best brand is fmb handmade in france and cheaper than dugast(that rn is owned by vittoria and produce in asia) tgen there is challenge still a great product but not as good as the 2 quoted before, for treating sidewalls to make them waterproof there is aquaseal/aquasure if i remember the name
 
Now want to talk about the new eletronic xtr
Not much to say honestly its a deralleur,its faster than sram and pretty precise
I tgink eletronic shifting is overrated, its more precise, when it take an hit absorb and manage it better but i feel that are too heavy honestly and last but not at least expensive for what it isz the cool thing is that you can pair it with road shifters, thats interesting for gravel
Other advantages of elettronic shifting are more precise calibration and more user friendly(also talking about handlebar cable integration) not that its hard but its for sure harder on mechanical shifter
 
New rules realesed by uci, at this point i think they are bored and dont know what to do, the next rules what are gonna be? Steel bikes with shifter on the tube? Lmao
Btw lets talk about the new rules, not every new rule is for 2026, some of them are delayed
First one is limited rim height of max 65mm on road(i dont think is gonna affect gravel or cx but who tf use them in gravel or cx? Lol) mass start races in 2026
Second dumb (and dumbest) rule, minimum bar lenght for road and cyclocross(and i think also gravel) of 400mm and 320mm in track from 2027 i think, i think its stupid because 360mm is not unsafe, i dont blame them completely because guys were running 280mm and were basically in a TT position (unsafe to ride) but 360mm its pretty normal lol
Forks now gonna have a limit on width, front 115mm and 145 on the rear in 2026 only road bikes and 2027 also track so rip hope track bike and the new factor prototype probably lol
Helmet are gonna be standardized for category, because they are worried that they are gonna use TT helmets for mass start i think thats in 2027
Good job uci lol
 
Ok sorry to everyone but i was a bit busy with school
CHAIN WAXING GUIDE
Ok, today i want to do a guide on chain waxing, like i always say it could be not perfect, if im gonna update something gonna write it here
First why chain waxing were oil lube works well?
1) wax is much cleaner lol
2) with sand and other shit get much less contaminated
3)some watt saving(depend on the wax)
4)chains last much longer
Cons of waxing
1)time consuming(or at least apparently)
2)not really water resistant

Ok so what we need?
My setup is pretty simple, there are much nicer setups but this works
So a camp stove with gas
A little pot(ofc dedicated to waxing)
Paraffin wax qty is pot volume dependant i say at least 200g(chain should be fully submerged)
Chain pliers(to remove the chain off the bike)
OPTIONAL PTFE powder (new chain 5g/100gof wax,old chain 1g/100g)
Gasoline
Denaturated alchool
Something to take the chain out without burning lol
Glass jar or something similar
OPTIONAL ultrasonic cleaner

This is my setup, could be fancier but no way im gonna pay for silca or some shit wax (to be a little bit faster but probably the same), probably gonna update it with a slowcooker instead of the pot because yes its slower but i can do multiple chains and its less messy


Ok starting from chain prep (its better to be new)
Starting from gasoline baths to remove the grease put it in the jar shake it a bit then leave the chain in the jar for some time(i think 15min) and repeat until liquid is clear
Then 1/2baths in alchol to strip it to metal
Let it dry

Waxing process
Put the chain in the pot (fire not already on) start the fire and let the wax melt with the chain(its not reccomended to put the chain in an already melted wax)
WAit until wax is fully molten
At this point close the heating(in my case the fire) and let it cool a bit, i usually do 10 minutes but probably doing a bit more could be better
Remove it (in my case with pliers but if u have a big pot u can do a chain holder with a steel wire coat hanger)
Now let the chain cool a bit and is gonna be gtg :)

Its easier to do than to write lol
Its funny that in a steroid forum u can find this things lol
I dont think that in most bike forums u can find it or at least everything seem pretty confusing
If someone read it and someone have some topic that ur interested let me know
 
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