Test E came cloudy and sludgy on the bottom and leaked out while heating, newbie post

[FilthyKangaroo]

Hello, i just ordered my first vials of test and my test p’s all came crystal clear and a thin watery liquid.

My 2 vials of test e however, both came cloudy with some type of sludge on the bottom

It’s cold outside so i let it set in some hot water, occasionally swirling throughout. It cleared up a bit and there’s no sludge anymore, however there’s still a yellow tint. It’s crystal clear like my test p.

Another worrying thing that happened with my test e is while i was in the process of swirling and tipping it upside down, a droplet of some sort came down from the rim. I rubbed it in between my fingers and it made my fingers kinda rubbery and i assumed it was oil that leaked out.


anyway, thoughts?


test e not heated


Test p (left) test e heated (middle) test e unheated (right)

 

[Ghoul]

It’s a bad idea to use water to heat. Coffee warmer or stick it in middle rack of oven at lowest temp (165-175f) for 20 minutes.

 

[FilthyKangaroo]

It’s a bad idea to use water to heat. Coffee warmer or stick it in middle rack of oven at lowest temp (165-175f) for 20 minutes.

I’ll make that change. What do you think of the possible droplet leaking out or the yellow tint? does the sludge before mean anything or was it just due to cold temperatures

 

[Ghoul]

I’ll make that change. What do you think of the possible droplet leaking out or the yellow tint? does the sludge before mean anything or was it just due to cold temperatures

Cold temps. “Sludge” is the stage of crashing between floating crystal and full solid.

The leaking drop is why water is a bad idea. The seal can be compromised, and water can infiltrate the vial.

FYI, 175f won’t melt any of the vial hardware, and you don’t need to “vent” the vial hardware either. It can go in fully sealed. Even if it’s “shrink wrapped” as some retail vials are, that won’t melt either.

Coffee warmers work as well, but in my experience the oven method has a better chance of staying in solution rather than recrashing.

 

[TRT]

I always stuck a small vent needle in it if it was a full bottle and I’d heat it.

 

[FilthyKangaroo]

Cold temps. “Sludge” is the stage of crashing between floating crystal and full solid.

The leaking drop is why water is a bad idea. The seal can be compromised, and water can infiltrate the vial.

So is that vial unsterile and not safe for injection anymore?

FYI, 175f won’t melt any of the vial hardware, and you don’t need to “vent” the vial hardware either. It can go in fully sealed. Even if it’s “shrink wrapped” as some retail vials are, that won’t melt either.

When would i need to vent?

Coffee warmers work as well, but in my experience the oven method has a better chance of staying in solution rather than recrashing.

I’ll probably just use a coffee warmer. Any specific ones that the community likes?

Also what’s causing this yellow tint and is yellow tinted test safe?

I always stuck a small vent needle in it if it was a full bottle and I’d heat it.

what’s the point of venting anything?

 

[Ghoul]

So is that vial unsterile and not safe for injection anymore?

When would i need to vent?

I’ll probably just use a coffee warmer. Any specific ones that the community likes?

Also what’s causing this yellow tint and is yellow tinted test safe?

what’s the point of venting anything?

Venting was used because boiling water temps create pressure in the vial. That whole process is old school and a bad idea.

Crashing and reheating has no impact on sterility.

Was it lightly yellow before?

In general that’s normal, but getting darker is a sign of oxidation / degradation.

 

[TRT]

So is that vial unsterile and not safe for injection anymore?

When would i need to vent?

I’ll probably just use a coffee warmer. Any specific ones that the community likes?

Also what’s causing this yellow tint and is yellow tinted test safe?

what’s the point of venting anything?

Further reduce any moisture in there. Hard to tell from a picture but UGl is common for it.

 

[FilthyKangaroo]

Venting was used because boiling water temps create pressure in the vial. That whole process is old school and a bad idea.

okay, thanks, could you give a quick summary on why it’s bad and why it’s still recommended today by some people?

Crashing and reheating has no impact on sterility.

Was it lightly yellow before?

i have a photo of the vial in the post. Yellowish and cloudy before

In general that’s normal, but getting darker is a sign of oxidation / degradation.

okay thanks

My biggest concern right now is whether or not the vial that had the drop leak out is safe or not. Do you think it’s not sterile anymore?

 

[Ghoul]

okay, thanks, could you give a quick summary on why it’s bad and why it’s still recommended today by some people?

i have a photo of the vial in the post. Yellowish and cloudy before

okay thanks

My biggest concern right now is whether or not the vial that had the drop leak out is safe or not. Do you think it’s not sterile anymore?

Because some people never update their knowledge.

Obviously you have a vial with an imperfect seal. That’s why a drop leaked out. Water is unsterile and accelerates degradation of the oil. No water = no risk of infiltration of water.

A vent is a bed idea because the moment temps inside the vial drop by just a couple of degrees, that vent starts to SUCK IN whatever condensation or other crap is on it.

 

[Trilla]

It’s a bad idea to use water to heat. Coffee warmer or stick it in middle rack of oven at lowest temp (165-175f) for 20 minutes.

Never heard that . Why would water hurt anything.

 

[Ghoul]

Never heard that . Why would water hurt anything.

Are you asking why water getting into your vial would hurt anything?

 

[Trilla]

Hello, i just ordered my first vials of test and my test p’s all came crystal clear and a thin watery liquid.

My 2 vials of test e however, both came cloudy with some type of sludge on the bottom

It’s cold outside so i let it set in some hot water, occasionally swirling throughout. It cleared up a bit and there’s no sludge anymore, however there’s still a yellow tint. It’s crystal clear like my test p.

Another worrying thing that happened with my test e is while i was in the process of swirling and tipping it upside down, a droplet of some sort came down from the rim. I rubbed it in between my fingers and it made my fingers kinda rubbery and i assumed it was oil that leaked out.


anyway, thoughts?


test e not heated
View attachment 365848

Test p (left) test e heated (middle) test e unheated (right)
View attachment 365850

I wouldn’t use it. Contact the supplier and request a refund. This is just me but go straight to the source either get it from China or from India Mart directly from the people who make it so you don’t have issues like this. All these brands are doing is buying it from India Mart or China and putting their label on it Adding $50 to the price and reselling it. Before I knew any better I was doing the same thing paying $60 $75 $90 for a 10 mL bottle that you could get for $15 from a source straight from a factory. You might have to wait 12 to 15 days to get your stuff but it’s well worth it and a hell of a lot cheaper and I guarantee you you won’t have these problems and it’s the same exact stuff unless they cut it down while they were putting a new label on it

 

[FilthyKangaroo]

I wouldn’t use it. Contact the supplier and request a refund. This is just me but go straight to the source either get it from China or from India Mart directly from the people who make it so you don’t have issues like this. All these brands are doing is buying it from India Mart or China and putting their label on it Adding $50 to the price and reselling it. Before I knew any better I was doing the same thing paying $60 $75 $90 for a 10 mL bottle that you could get for $15 from a source straight from a factory. You might have to wait 12 to 15 days to get your stuff but it’s well worth it and a hell of a lot cheaper and I guarantee you you won’t have these problems and it’s the same exact stuff unless they cut it down while they were putting a new label on it

I’d rather order domestic to prevent seizures and other things like that.

From what it seems though, the test e became unsealed to my inexperienced usage of water that was too hot. I don’t think that’d be refundable

Thanks!

 

[cousinmuscles]

Agree with not using water, however if water did enter, you would be able to see it very clearly as it will separate completely from both the oil and the hormone.

Venting was used because boiling water temps create pressure in the vial. That whole process is old school and a bad idea.

Crashing and reheating has no impact on sterility.

Was it lightly yellow before?

In general that’s normal, but getting darker is a sign of oxidation / degradation.

Why a bad idea? There is a chance that the vial explodes if it becomes too hot, and if not, if you keep reheating it you will ruin the stopper. I have accidently heated a vial a tad too much on the stove, it exploded into tiny pieces the moment I touched the crimp. Can't trust these chinese vials lol

This is what happened to one set of vials that I heated every morning on my rooms heater, heated to around 50c just to make it possible to pin through 30g.

https://thinksteroids.com/community/media/img_20250529_154713-webp.108770/

 

[explodingHeart]

It’s a bad idea to use water to heat. Coffee warmer or stick it in middle rack of oven at lowest temp (165-175f) for 20 minutes.

What is the minimum time to reheat crashed test-c? Let's say I'm storing my oils in the fridge to slow oxidation because it's crappy Chinese UGL.

What the process to make it usable again?

 

[Ghoul]

What is the minimum time to reheat crashed test-c? Let's say I'm storing my oils in the fridge to slow oxidation because it's crappy Chinese UGL.

What the process to make it usable again?

I mean all “uncrashing”, coffee warmer or otherwise, is based on a visual assessment. Via the low temp oven method the longest for some that arrived solid as wax (at room temp) took 40 minutes, but there was something wrong with that batch (weather was mild, not cold). 20 mins would be more typical from cold exposure. Just look at the vial, grap it with something (not your bare fingers) and give it a swirl to check.

 

[explodingHeart]

I mean all “uncrashing”, coffee warmer or otherwise, is based on a visual assessment. Via the low temp oven method the longest for some that arrived solid as wax (at room temp) took 40 minutes, but there was something wrong with that batch (weather was mild, not cold). 20 mins would be more typical from cold exposure. Just look at the vial, grap it with something (not your bare fingers) and give it a swirl to check.

Any idea of the consequences of injecting crashed gear? Does it actually raise CRP and do damage? Or is it just superficial pain and swelling?

 

[Ghoul]

Any idea of the consequences of injecting crashed gear? Does it actually raise CRP and do damage? Or is it just superficial pain and swelling?

You mean after it’s back in solution? I don’t know how you’d inject gear while it was still crashed.

If it recrashes after injection, then the crystals will irritate, or very mildly injure, tissues, causing some local pain temporarily:

That’s the worst case scenario.

 

[explodingHeart]

You mean after it’s back in solution? I don’t know how you’d inject gear while it was still crashed.

If it recrashes after injection, then the crystals will irritate, or very mildly injure, tissues, causing some local pain temporarily:

That’s the worst case scenario.

yes, that's what I meant. Like injecting Primo without "warming it up" as the tradtional advice goes. The same vial could have zero pip/problems, or cause giant welts.

I assume there is a semi-crashed state, where it's not solid but still looks dissolved in the vial.

I tested CRP while using QSC primo (while constantly getting pip/welts) and not even filtering, and hit a 0.3 hs-crp at at age 40, but my eosinophils were elevated. After I stopped using primo, I had no more CBC issues.

This was using it directly after receiving it, no yellowing, purely clear so I assume their "gutter oil" hadn't had time to oxidize yet.